30 students in 6 teams transforming textile remnants into new valuable products through design and creativity.
29 and 30 November saw the staging of the first edition of the MODA-FAD Sustainable Challenge, with a vocation to become an annual event. It concerned the transformation of textile remnants into new valuable products through design and creativity.
Part of Re-/Barcelona, the professional forum on sustainable fashion, the activity attracted students from different design disciplines under the direction of experts in the different areas involved in the fashion industry, working in groups to develop new brands and the corresponding products from textile remnants.
Team 1: Olvido (Forgetting)
Beta Suriol Escalante – Llotja
Marina Álvarez – Elisava
Martina Arosreguy – University of Mendoza / Llotja – Erasmus
Tamara Sanabria – EADI Moda
Sergio García Boguña – Elisava
Value proposal: Olvido (Forgetting) conceptualizes the idea of rejection of unused garments. For this it proposes to dress “forgetting” by highlighting simplicity, ambiguity and mutability.
Piece/s designed: the developed product is a long jacket of very simple, monochrome and geometric lines created from all types of garments, representing the vast diversity of garment typologies that are discarded. They chose grey-hued colours to reflect the rejection of unused pieces.
But this piece also seeks to transmit hope, the hope behind upcycling. To represent it, they incorporated a yellow detail in each one of the sleeves with some internal stripes that, when pulled, give movement to the garment by changing its volume and hang and the way it adapts to the body.
The experts highlight: «Olvido is the most projectable proposal»
Team 2: Quipu
Tania Marcial – LCI Barcelona
Javiera Martel Molina – LCI Barcelona
Luciana Maria Manfredi – ESDesign Barcelona
Assmae Belout – Institut Guindàvols (Lleida)
Joan Pahissa Aranda – Elisava
Value proposal: Quipu is a monster that wishes to symbolize the fashion industry’s major problem: the mixture of materials in garment fabrics. This mixture makes us feel comfortable but has the consequence of depriving us of the possibility of being sustainable, because such materials are impossible to separate and recycle.
Quipu’s DNA is to critique, yet also to come up with solutions that enhance the value of craftsmanship. An Impact 3.0 project: through its social aspect, giving new value to the crafts we have gradually lost and to the circular economy. Quipu’s final and most drastic message is that we must not generate new products, placing the root of the problem with the designers.
Piece/s designed: the formal reference that gives its name to the brand and the piece is Quipu, an instrument from Pre-Columbian culture with a soul from which threads were released. The piece has been created by employing techniques such as loom weaving based on deconstructing garments made from mixed materials, cutting strips and joining them together to then rack them.
The experts highlighted: «Quipu is the most conceptual project, the one that delved deepest into the problem of sustainability»
Team 3: Erretres
Laia Castellano González – Illa School / LCI Barcelona
Mar Mendieta – LCI Barcelona
Nuria Lafuente Matias – Llotja
Sara Fernandez Lopez – UPC
Ivonne Penadillo La Rosa – IED Barcelona
Value proposal: Erretres reuses synthetic fibres, the hardest ones to recycle, to generate a product that can be replicated regardless of the original garment. To achieve this it applies four criteria: multifunctionality, universal design, sustainable design and usability.
Piece/s designed: Erretres is three products in a single design: a backpack, a jacket and a blanket. In its origins the piece is a double-layer square made through the patchwork technique. One layer has been produced from remnants of technical trousers joined together piece by piece, which give it impermeability. The other layer is made by joining together remnants of woollen jumpers to insulate and provide heat when it is a blanket or a jacket. The original square is manipulated like origami, giving the option of three pieces achieved through manipulation. Of the trouser pieces used in making it, the pockets fulfil their original function in the piece’s three states.
The experts highlighted: «Erretres is the most practical project»
Team 4: Casi todos los anónimos son mujeres (Almost all anonymous are women)
Natalia Lequerica Echeverry – IED Barcelona
María Odriozola Varela – LCI Barcelona
Giuliana Mesa – Llotja
Aroa López Rodríguez – ESDI
Alba Ayza Ruiz – LCI Barcelona
Value proposal: Almost all anonymous are women who champion women and seek to give visibility to how they have been concealed and repressed throughout history, giving as examples the cases of artists such as Caterina Albert or Judith Leyser.
Piece/s designed: two works by the artist Judy Pfaff inspire the designed look. The garments were made by reinterpreting original pieces from male fashion, shaping them to a woman’s body through the Mulag technique. This strategy seeks to put an end to the stigma that a garment necessarily has to be designed for a man or for a woman.
Three shirts, two for sleeves and one for the torso joined together by original buckles, shape the upper part. The trousers, with a military-style lateral pocket, feature the name of the brand, made from letters taken from technical apparel, cut out and stitched. The surplus polyester shirts are used for making the complements.
The experts highlighted: «Almost all anonymous are women is the most activist proposal»
Team 5: El giro (The Twist)
Stephanie Teichelmann Puente – EASD Valencia
Helena Calafell Muñoz-Castanyer – University of Barcelona
Ismael El Hajji Muñoz – LCI Barcelona
Adrià Arbòs Escarrá – EADS Serra i Abella
Sabela Nieto Iglesias – University of Vigo
Value proposal: El Giro (The Twist) seeks to turn around the current production and consumer model through the following values: versatility, uniqueness, activism, adaptability, movement and zero waste. El Giro seeks to spur movement as a message for changing the world. El Giro is circular economy.
Piece/s designed: El Giro consists of a unisex, oversize trench coat. A garment made from five classic-cut, tailored trousers of which not even the smallest bits have gone to waste. The result is a trench coat with adjustable sleeves, a unique, classic piece that is also functional, versatile, unisex and one-size-fits-all. A black garment that through movement gives rise to colour, to the messages it conceals inside it in the shape of the prints and textures symbolizing the plurality of fashion. A belt bag made from corduroy trousers complements the trench coat.
The experts highlighted: «El Giro is a gorgeous garment that is also projectable»
Team 6: Be.your Collection
Carlota Herranz Viñas – LCI Barcelona
Immaculada Valero Cuéllar – Valencia Polytechnic / Massana
Mario García Coronado – IED Barcelona / University of Barcelona
Nicolás García Soriano – Llotja
Laura Codina Ibern – MBDESIGN (UPC – UB)
Value proposal: Be.your is multifunctionality. These designs can be everyday products as well as fashion garments and vice versa. Be.your does not seek to give a second life to forgotten clothing; rather, it aims for a third life.
Piece/s designed: Be.your Collection comprises three multifunctional designs: a fruit bowl that is a hat, a hat that is a fruit bowl; a dress that is a lamp, a lamp that is a dress; and a cushion that is a top, a top that is a cushion. Three designs and three resulting products, all of them made from shirts.
The experts highlighted: «Be.your is the most innovative proposal thanks to its multifunctional component»
The curatorship and creative direction of the MODA-FAD Sustainable Challenge was entrusted to Makeo (Roberto Piqueras and Eme Rock), who selected the members of the six working teams, and a committee of experts, who supported the students during the process. The committee of experts was comprised of Krizia Robustella (design), Victor von Schwarz (pattern cutting), Khadija Moubarik and María Francisca Fernández of the Ared Foundation (garment making), Diego Andrés López (fashion photography), Back to eco (market and sustainability) and Robert Thompson of MATERFAD (materials and technology).
Instax by Fujifilm was the Official Camera with which the participants could work on their projects and use them in the creative process to capture the different phases of the two intense sessions. For its part, Alfa loaned the sewing machines for the students to make their pieces.
From the different, most common textile remnant types provided by Roba Amiga, a cooperative that selectively collects used clothing, home textiles, shoes and other textile remnants for their value enhancement through reuse and recycling, new pieces and their corresponding brands were generated, sharing between them the capacity for replicability as a strategy.
Upcycling, fibre recycling, bringing new dignity to waste, innovation, responsibility, design and creativity were some of the tags of this creative exercise, which took place in a non-formal learning context that encouraged cross-sectional, interdisciplinary work under a paradigm with a gender perspective, seeking to foster learning on sustainable design that drives social benefits.